After consternating for a while by draping every co-ordinating fabric and trim I could find over Madge the material girl, I still couldn't decide upon which fabric to use but it did help with the design. I decided that a wrap-around skirt with covered buttons to fasten might be nice...
I remembered that I have some 1/4 scale blocks - I could make a mini version of the skirt and decide what looked best! Then I remembered that I have a little artists model which would be perfect for 'modelling' the design. Here she is - Mini Madge!
And what wouldn't work..
I think 'no' to the green linen .. don't you? Here is the cream ensemble ..
Hmm.... still not sure about this one .. what do you think? For now, I stuck with the more simple design, and pinned it to Mini Madge..
So I think I will leave Mini Madge posing on the desk for a while before I make my final decision.
A picture says a thousand words
This week's "Little Bit Greener" theme is "Green Grooming" … Now I could write a whole book on this subject and still not even skim the surface of this huge topic so I shall try my best to summarise my thoughts and findings as concisely as possible.
One of the greatest forces of human nature is Vanity. The other is Greed. Put these two forces together and what have you got? The Cosmetics Industry. My overriding statement here would be "Wake up and smell the Bullsh*t!". Question your awareness and ask yourself what am I buying and more importantly why? Just as we make relationship with the food we eat and the land we tend, so should we think about the origins of what we're pasting onto ourselves in the name of "beauty". Where does it come from? What does it do? Why do we need it? What’s in it? What are the consequences? How was it tested? What IS an "air-light polymer with innovative optical element" ? Does it really work? Does this product really need to come wrapped in three ever decreasing plastic boxes and six layers of cardboard? Do I really want a tall, dark, handsome stranger to accost me on the street with a bunch of flowers and a promise of undying adoration if I use this perfume? Exactly WHO is benefiting from this product? Me or the company who made it?
Dont' just read what it says on the label. Whether a product contains sodium laureth sulphate or not is really the least of your worries because the cosmetics trade is one of the most unethical industries in existence. It consistently breaks just about every 'green' rule in the book. Ingredients are used which have been harvested after the torture, death or near extinction of some some animals, manufacturing processes are detrimental to the environment, packaging often outweighs the cost and size of the product and after all that, to save money, these lotions, potions, sprays and scrubs often contain harmful chemicals and toxins which are bad for us, and bad for the environment. In addition, most of the claims of the manufacturers about their products are scandalous lies. The formulas of cosmetic products including creams, shampoos, conditioners, waxes, balms and lotions of all types for hair and body, are all basically the same - creams, balms and lotions are made from varying amounts of oil and water, shampoos and soaps are little more than detergent - the same type we use to wash our dishes and clothes! What differs from brand to brand is the addition of various extracts from animals, plants and minerals which are given ridiculous names designed specifically to bamboozle the consumer and marketed as the next best thing in the quest for beauty, sparkle and wellbeing. Some products work, and some of them don't - that is more to do with your genetic make-up than anything else.
One of the problems of being a big player in the cosmetics trade, is that to keep making as much money as possible, the industry has to be self perpetuating which is why there's always a new product around the corner. If each new product that comes on the market is as good as they keep telling us, why are companies tripping over themselves to find new and better ingredients and formulas? Why do we need yet another miracle product? Why, in this day and age, is it still necessary to test on animals or use animal derived ingredients? In 2004, L'Oreal, the worlds largest user of animal tested ingredients, who openly oppose a ban against animal testing, applied for 586 patents for newly developed formulas.
There is very little legislation on the environmental impact of the manufacturing process and the amount and type of packaging used for cosmetics. It is a well known fact that excessive and expensive packaging, lends credibility to the “worth” of a product. Outrageously, it is common for cosmetics firms to package the same product (ie: a cleansing cream) in two different types of packaging. One for the lower, cheap end of the market, and another for the high, expensive end of the market. One way of doing this is by branding certain products to a particular retailer.
So aside from the commercial considerations and questions, what is actually IN those brightly coloured and temptingly packaged vases and phials?? Did you know that:
Collagen, a popular “firming” ingredient, is a fibrous protein derived from animal cartilage and often extracted from the skin of calves.
Amniotic fluid from pregnant cows is used in facial and body moisturisers due to its neutral PH of 7.
Thymus Extract is nothing to do with the herb Thyme, but is a substance extracted from the thymus glands of animals and used in skin cream to help the immune system and improve cell function.
Hyaluronic Acid is an extremely popular ingredient and you will find it in almost every “super” moisturiser or skin preparation which claims to “hydrate” skin or fight dehydration. Originally, it came from Cocks Combs, and although there is now a similar plant based alternative, both types are widely used.
Kalaya Oil is a recent addition to the cosmetics armoury and is used as a skin softner and anti imflamatory ingredient in moisturising cream, shower cream, shampoo and soap. Though it sounds as if it comes from an exotic plant or nut, it is actually extracted from the fat of specially farmed emus.
Elastin is an animal derived protein used in cream for dry skin. It is similar to collagen, extracted from bovine neck ligaments and used for mature skins as the molecules are smaller and more easily absorbed than collagen.
Embryo extract from foetal calves is used for hormones in anti-aging creams.
The following ingredients are commonly used as “fixatives” in perfume. Chanel, Dior, Yves st Laurant, Guerlain and Lancome to name a few, are the worst offenders:
Musk: A secretion from the gland of the male musk deer which is only available from dead animals. This deer is now in danger of extinction.
Civet: Less commonly used these days, but this fixative is from cats who are captured and then tormented to increase the secretions
Castor: Not from beans, but from Beavers sex glands. Freshly killed, dead beavers.
Is this what you want to be putting on your skin?
The act of treating ourselves to something expensive, luxurious and smelly, to pamper ourselves with makes us feel good and there's absolutely nothing wrong with that but why choose a product containing emu fat or cow cartilage, when a cream made with natural plant oils is just as, if not more, effective. How can our spirit connect with something which has caused the suffering, or death of an animal - for the sole purpose of keeping us beautiful? Before we buy anything, we need to be able to see through the cynical marketing ploys which feed our vanity and strip our wallets, and shun the almost robotic use of those mass produced products – most of which we simply do not need, whether or not they are endorsed by celebrities like Nicole Kidman, Kate Moss or Posh Spice. If we can’t connect with the product then we have to put it back on the shelf and say to ourselves ”It’s not worth it”.
So what do we do ladies? What IS worth it? Well there are LOTS of alternatives. Firstly, you could make your own. Not only is this great fun, it is also very very satisfying. My friend Jane has been making skincare products for years - her passion is natural soap. She has set up a website HERE which is a treasure trove of information on how to make high quality products for your face, body and wellbeing. Jane has taught me to make the most divine body butters, facial creams, balms and soaps. The only thing I would say is that this is not a 'carte blanche' solution. Some ingredients are still not 'green' , palm oil being the most obvious as it's cultivation and harvest destroys the natural habitat of Orangutangs.
Although there are many Lush products that are quite harsh (I don't like their soap), they are listed as one of the top 5 ethical companies for their stance on both animal testing and environmental issues. If you can't be bothered to make your own, then Lush is probably the best answer.
Naturewatch publish a guide to compassionate products which I have found indispensable - it covers cosmetics and other household products. Their website is also packed with information though it is of a more compassionate nature than environmental.
Cosmetic Watch is just one book which lifts the lid on the cosmetic industry, there are many more. (note: The so called "21st Century Beauty Bible is NOT a helpful guide to green grooming - it is a 'catalogue' for expensive brands most of which fall into the above rapacious catergory).
The Soap Kitchen (UK) supplies raw materials for making your own cosmetics, not just soap.
Bramble Berry (USA) supplies raw materials for soaps, lotions, potions and makeup and they have a blog with loads of tutorials.
OK … i'm not finished ladies … because if there's one thing, just ONE thing that could make a world of difference to your green grooming aspirations, then this is it .. if you don't like the sight of blood, don't look away now.
Sanitary products. Not a nice subject I know and pretty disgusting when you think about it but you have to know this if you don't already. Sanitary products, and by this I mean sanitary towels, tampons and even nappies, use chemicals to increase absorbency and each time we use them, we not only exacerbate the world's landfill and pollution problems, but we also run the risk of contaminating ourselves with a dangerous cocktail of chemicals which can cause a whole range of problems, disorders, complications and can sometimes even lead to death.
A frequent ingredient in the manufacture of tampons, is dioxin which is a by-product of chlorine bleaching (creates the white appearance of sanitary products). It is one of the most harmful chemicals known to man and has been linked to reproductive and immune disorders. Once it is in the environment it cannot be removed. It accumulates in the fatty tissues of humans and animals. We are all susceptible to dioxin contamination through our diet and the environment, but there is absolutely no logical reason why women should be subject to the possibility of additional exposure through their sanitary protection.
Another common material used in today's disposable products is the synthetic fibre rayon, which is used in combination with cotton in most tampons. It is usually produced with chlorine gas. Chlorine-free rayon does exist but unless manufacturers fully label their products, which they don't always, we cannot be certain that they are chlorine free.
The use of such highly absorbent materials has also been linked to the disease Toxic Shock Syndrome. Other problems associated with absorbency enhancers in tampons include peeling of the mucous membrane, vaginal dryness, ulcers, and lesions. Apart from the obvious pollution caused by the manufacturing processes, the average woman uses 12,000 pads/liners/tampons during her menstrual lifetime. It takes 6 months for 1 tampon to biodegrade but plastic used in pads can remain in the environment forever, and it is estimated that 5 million sea birds and 100,000 marine mammals die each year from swallowing the type of plastic contained in these products.
So what can you do?
Menstrual cups were introduced in the 1930's (around the same time as disposable tampons). Traditionally, menstrual cups were made from latex, a substance derived from the sap of the gum tree. Latex rubber is a common allergen and so cups have now been developed which are made from medical grade silicone, a safer, softer and more attractive material.
Silicone is derived from silica, found in sandstone and quartz, one of the most abundant resources on our planet. It collects menstrual flow directly from the base of the cervix, has a capacity of 1 fl oz (a whole cycle will produce 3-4fl oz) and can be worn for anywhere between 6-12 hours depending on flow.
The many testimonials on all of these websites which sell both latex and silicone menstrual cups indicate that this is a safe, leak proof, convenient, and comfortable alternative to the disposable, commercially available tampon.
http://www.mooncup.co.uk (UK)
http://www.thedivacup.com/en/home.html (Canada)
http://www.keeper.com/index.html (USA)
http://www.mum.org/MenCups.htm (further reading)
I've been using a Mooncup for 8 years now. It cost me £17.00 and since the first time I used it, I haven't needed anything else. Think about it - do the sums! How many boxes of Tampax and pantyliners would you use in 8 years? These products are classified as Luxury (!!!!) which enables the retailers to bump the price up even more! No, a Mooncup doesn't suck out your insides, it isn't hard to use, it isn't dangerous or 'dirty', but it might well save your life, if not your wallet.
This is one of the dress styles I plan to make. I've already cut the pattern which I redrafted myself to my own measurements - I find it so much easier to start from scratch than to alter a pattern, especially a vintage pattern. It's a very simple dress, and I've changed the style a little by making it more of a panel dress - the seams will go all the way down the dress instead of stopping at the hip. This means that I will be able to adjust the 'wiggle factor' with more ease. I think I will also make the jacket pictured, but shorter.
Then there's the dress for Mrs P. Here it is pinned to Madge. It's a gorgeous fabric - gold cotton backed satin with a dark brown velvety pattern, like a flock. She is going to wear it to a wedding in October, and this fabric is just the right weight for a wintery frock. It will be lined with dark brown lining with a net underskirt to give it a little flounce. Today I cut out the dress pieces by thread tracing the pattern onto a single layer of the fabric in order to be able to match up the repeat. I'm not sure how well I did - it's not sewn together yet.
Also on my list to make is a skirt for my Sister-in-Law. It will be made from some lovely cream linen/cotton blend fabric, with accents in the Kaffe Fasset fabric pictured. It's bright and cheerful just like she is. 
I don't know ... One minute I had the cutest baby ..
Rachel at That Little Bit Greener asks us this week "How concerned are you about the impact all our cleaning products have on the environment? Do you use any eco-friendly cleaning products? How do they perform? What about home-made products? Is this something you want to find out more about?"
So here's what I know …
The household cleaning market is dominated by two companies, Unilever and Proctor & Gamble. Between them, they make most of the cleaning products on our supermarket shelves, from washing powder to toothpaste and dishwasher tablets. These two companies are not endorsed by bodies like Naturewatch and Friends of the Earth because not only do they use manufacturing techniques that involve gross pollution and animal testing but they also contain substances which are classified from toxic to corrosive to poisonous. Manufacturers are not required to list specific ingredients on labels, so you don't necessarily know what you're getting and this makes it very difficult to protect yourself, your family and the environment from poisons. In addition, some ingredients used in washing powders contain petrochemical surfectants and optical brightening agents to make whites look white. These harm fish and other aquatic life.
Ofcourse, we all like to live in clean and comfortable homes. Every night as we sit in front of the television, we are bombarded with advertisements on the best washing up liquid, the fastest drain cleaner, the most effective antibacterial spray, the most convenient bathroom cleaner. There are so many amazing cleaning products available at the supermarket, that with only a tiny amount of effort, we should be able to clean our lives away!
In my early 20's when Mr Marmalade and I bought our first house and money was tight, I used to despair at my monthly shopping bill - it was costing us more to keep the house clean than it was to feed ourselves! I started to think about what was really necessary to keep our home dirt free - in fact, just how dirt free does it actually need to be? And what is in all of these products which keep our homes sterile but dirty the world around us, because as synthetic chemicals and materials are not easily broken down, the ecosystem can become toxic. As you know, I am an anti-consumer and I just don't believe the marketing twaddle we are hypnotised with by these companies who are making the most obscene profits at our expense.
And so I re-evaluated the contents of my under-the-sink cupboard, and now instead of a jumble of squirty bottles and sprays filled with chemicals designed for every type of dirt, I have two or three items which help keep the place clean, the cupboard tidy, and my wallet healthy. The rest is in my larder.
I don't have a dishwasher - I use Ecover washing up liquid. I clean my bathroom with a substance called "spotless" which is made with just 5 natural ingredients and which is a trillion times more effective than anything labelled with the word "Flash", and in place of Mr Muscle, I have vinegar. Dusting is done with a dry or damp cloth and I polish my wood once a year (if I remember!) with a natural beeswax polish.
That's it apart from the water in my tap and a couple of "E-Coths" … I don't use the branded e-cloths, they are rather expensive for what they are. I have cheap brand 'industrial' e-cloths which are used mainly in the hospitality trade. I find them much more effective, and I've been using the same ones for about 4 years now. You could probably find them in a Cash and Carry.
There are lots of natural cleaners which all of us probably have lurking about somewhere in the home. A quick google search for "natural cleaning" or some such phrase, would reveal a whole cornucopia of chemical free, yet effective, recipes. Here are a few guidelines of my own:
Bicarbonate of Soda (baking soda)
Top tips:
To clean fiddly silver items, line an empty plastic ice-cream carton with aluminium foil (shiny side up), add a cup of warm water and a teaspoon of bicarb of soda. Drop the silver items in the solution. After a few seconds your dirty silver will be gleaming!
To remove odours from the fridge, place a dish of bicarb in there - it will absorb the smell. This also works with shoes.
Distilled White Vinegar
Top tips:
If your shower head is all limed up, take it off the hose, put it headfirst into a pint glass or vase and pour vinegar in to cover the head. Leave for a few hours. The lime scale will have softened and can be washed off effortlessly with water.
If you have limescale round your taps, soak kitchen towels or rags in white vinegar and wrap round your taps covering the offending lime-scale completely and making sure that the area is saturated. Cover with a plastic bag in order that the rags stay wet. After a few hours, you will be able to wash the limescale off.
To clean windows, make a 50/50 solution of white vinegar and water. Wash windows with this solution, dry, and then buff with scrunched up newspaper. Your windows will never have been shinier!
To clean brass and bronze, mix half teaspoon of salt and half a cup of white vinegar, then use flour to make a paste. Apply thickly, leave for 30 mins, rinse off.
To clean chrome, wipe with vinegar, rinse with water.
Lemon Juice
Top tips:
To clean lime scale from cups and glasses, cut a lemon in half, cover the cut half with salt and rub this into the lime scale. Rinse the glass and the lime scale will have vanished.
To clean limescale stained glass (i.e. what you get after too many dishwasher attacks), sprinkle salt on a slice of lemon and rub the stained area.
To clean copper, polish with a lemon juice and salt paste.
Borax
Top tips:
Mold and mildew can be tackled with a mix of borax and water - simply spray on and wipe off. If your shower is prone to mold, wash down with borax and do not rinse. The borax residue will fight mold growth. (note to self: must get some borax!).
Make your own spot remover with 1/4 cup of borax dissolved in 2 cups of water. Sponge on stain and let dry, or pre-treat before washing. Good for blood, chocolate, mud, coffee, mildew and urine stains.
Add half a cup of borax to your wash load with the usual amount of washing powder to boost its cleaning power and deodorise the wash.
Dissolve 1 tablespoon of Borax in a litre of warm water and use to wipe the fridge clean and deodorise it at the same time.
Mix borax into a paste and rub into carpet stains. Allow to dry and then vacuum the powder. For wine and other liquid stains dissolve half a cup of Borax in half a litre of warm water, leave for 30 minutes and sponge off. For odours, dampen the area sprinkle with Borax and vacuum when it has dried.
Tea Tree Oil
Top tips:
Use tea tree oil in a spray bottle (with distilled water) as a disinfectant for anything at all that needs disinfecting. (I like this for toilets).
Use tea tree oil in a nappy bucket instead of “napisan” to soak nappies or re-usable sanitary or menstrual products.
Use neat tea tree oil on insect stings – it will clean them and stop irritation (actually I prefer neat lavender for this).
Use tea tree oil in a spray bottle to fight mould.
Make a new pencil case for Jimmy...
Some bunting for a little boy...
But as it's an outfit for a wedding (again!), it won't be made from old jeans!
