Monday 10 January 2011

Shirt Making

One of the things I have really enjoyed making recently is a shirt for Mr Marmalade.

Is the cigarette absolutely necessary do you think?
It's from a vintage pattern I bought a few years ago (which was then too big!) - the only 'western style' shirt I could find anywhere on the interweb at the time - the picture on the front isn't exactly compelling is it?  But I didn't buy this pattern because Mr M. is into line dancing or Country music.  I had to look past the illustration with my own vision, because a Western style shirt can easily be made to look like a Rockabilly shirt, which is the look we're aiming for.

back yoke and top stitching detail
Because I was ill over the entire festive season,  I couldn't get out to buy something - we only ever buy a 'token' for eachother, because we like to go to the sales in new year to treat ourselves to something 'luxury' for the house, like a new TV - .. anyway .. I couldn't get out, so I made this shirt, but because I was lacking energy and short on time and because there was no opportunity for a fitting, I didn't make it with all the detail given - this wasn't a problem because the yokes are separate pieces added on top of the basic shirt design!  

So I made a 'simple' version with a view to customising further versions once I am used to this pattern, how it goes together, and how it 'fits' Mr. M.  

To get a good idea of how the shirt would fit (and indeed IF it would fit!) I smuggled Mr M's favourite shirt into my sewing room, and measured first the pattern against the shirt, and then the actual shirt pieces as I went, just to make doubly sure.  When it was more or less together,  I did a 'test fitting' on Jimmy - he is as tall but not as wide as Mr M these days!  Here he is wearing one of his dad's old suits and the aforementioned smuggled shirt..

he's only 15!!
Actually, the new shirt fits both of them too!  On Mr M. it's a 'fitted' look - which is what he likes, and on Jimmy it's a more 'tailored' look, which is what he likes!  

Madge is modelling this shirt - she's still wearing my bra!
The shirt is made from a lovely black cotton/viscose dotty shirting fabric with one way stretch.   I added quirky details with some left over silk (from the party dress) and red top stitching.  I wanted to add at least one pocket but I spent nearly a whole day trying to work out the pattern instructions to no avail, so I made one up and stuck it on the left breast - 

Inside with red spotty silk on the collar and back yoke
The most difficult parts to attach were the cuffs... I'm sure there's an easier way than the method presented in the instructions which say that the sleeve is sewn up before the cuff is put on - VERY FIDDLY (and as yet unfinished) ... I am sure this step could be done before the shirt sleeve is sewn together.


In summary, I enjoyed making this shirt because:
  • There are no curves to negotiate which is a welcome change for me and makes things much easier!  I could cut this out in a morning, and have most of  it sewn up in a day.
  • I love topstitching
  • The creative scope from just one pattern, is quite infinite! There is an obvious 'formula' to making a man's shirt and so this pattern - now that I know it fits perfectly -  can be customised over and over and over with different details.  I can combine different fabrics, add piping, make different shaped yokes, different style pockets, add embroidery or transfers, make the sleeves shorter, change the cuffs, use buttons or poppers and many other details.
Here are some inspirational pictures which I shall be using for future manifestations ....

Click to enlarge

And the winner ...


... is Melissa

Melissa has been sewing her own clothes since 2001 and last year she even made her own wedding dress from the dress her grandmother wore in 1949.  There is more inspiration than you can shake a needle at over there, plus many tutorials.  Go and have a peek but make sure you make a cuppa first. 

Saturday 8 January 2011

Sew Resolved ..

One of the things I have failed to do for the last two years, is to make myself a decent wardrobe of clothes and so this year, I have resolved to be organised.


My problem is focus... I am so easily distracted and I have so much 'going on' most of the time, that I need to forumlate a plan which includes a much more focussed approach to the things I love to do. 

I have therefore cancelled commitments that I do not feel I have time for anymore, and made my own creativity a priority.  Call me selfish, but it's what I have been lacking (and what this blog has been lacking too!).

I am making lists.  Lots of lists, I have books, and journals, and computer files to help me .. and piles .. lots of piles of stuff to sort.

The first list/pile to organise is:

  • a list of clothes I need
  • a list of clothes I want to try to make
  • a pile of fabric I already have
  • patterns I have or have bought ..

Clothes I need (and that have been on my 'to do list' for two years now):

A summer dress or two (or three) for wearing out and about - smart/casual
A few light tops for every day / work,  and which 'go' with skirts and trousers I already have
A light jacket or two for when the weather is chilly but not cold
A couple of dresses for 'work' which are compatible with boot wearing for winter/spring use
Some long loose tops suitable for wearing with leggins, for house/gardening wear
An outfit for an event in May - this will have a fetish theme
A party dress for next Christmas
An every day corset
A bra
Knickers

All the above must be "layerable" - the climate here in the UK is so unpredictable, I find that it is easiest to have clothes which go "trans-season" - they can be worn with other garments under or over, with or without tights, and are both boot and shoe compatible.  It's a bit of a tall order but I am not a fussy dresser, I like things to be plain, smart, attractive, flattering, functional, and comfortable.

List of clothes I want to try to make:

Tailored jacket
Coat
More shirts for Mr Marmalade

List of clothes I want to make for 'creative' purposes

Corsets - too many to list, but some of them at least with rhinestones!
Corset for Mr M.


In my fabric stash I have wools, suitings, knits, silks, cottons, linens, blends, saris, nettings and plenty of trimmings and other interesting bits and bobs to use.  I'm going to be busy this year aren't I??

I also have all the patterns I need, and most of the fabric.  Many of the patterns are vintage.  I will show them to you when I've organised them!!

I have no excuse to procrastinate!





Thursday 6 January 2011

New Year, New Giveaway

Well perhaps not a new giveaway as there seem to be lots of these in the blogosphere... 



All of us contributors were sent two copies of this lovely calendar and here is mine to giveaway.



I am "Miss 10th June" with my Toe Separators tutorial which is featured on this blog via the link down there on the left.  There are lots of 'famous' bloggy names in this calendar and trillions of good ideas!  

To win just leave a comment on this blog telling me what you like to read about in a sewing blog and / or  what you would like to see here over the next year.  One of my new year resolutions is to be a more frequent blogger!

I will pick the winner on Sunday evening..