Vogue 8701 Progress

So i've done the pad stitching on the collars.  It took a while as the collars are quite wide.  Not only that, they are not one piece with the body as a tailored jacket normally would be, they are sewn onto the bodice as illustrated in the last post.

Pad stitching is easy peasy to do once you get the hang of it, and you easily get into a 'rhythm' which makes it much easier still.  You just have to remember a couple of things.  

Keep the collar folded (pref. over your finger) at the fold line

Keep the stitches small

Keep the stitches as even as possible

Each line starts at the opposite end to the last - this is what causes the chevron shape.

Pad stitching not only shapes your collar, but it also ensures that the collar lies flat and where it is supposed to be.

Here we have one side padstitched, and the other not.  You can clearly see how the pad stitching has helped the left side lie flat while the right side is distorted out of shape because it is bouncing back upwards.

Here it is from the side - very unsightly!

And from the other side ... even worse!

Now complete, my collars are beautifully shaped as the pattern intended and nice and flat too.

Vogue 8701

I know, don't faint!  I have actually started making something other than a corset!  And this is it.  Project 1 of 6, the Vogue 8701 jacket.  I like it because of the open shawl type collar, short length and fitted style.  It's a jacket I am making to wear with jeans or a skirt.  Smart yet casual, and warm.

click on pics to enlarge

I made a toile from many different bits of calico - hence the strange "technicolour dreamcoat" look!  There are 14 pattern pieces to this jacket which makes for some interesting details, namely some slanted panels and peplums which go towards creating the fitted look.

The centre back section is made from 2 pieces, but I am not sure why, so I have cut the back panel on a fold for a less smoother look.  I cut the size 16 which I think MIGHT be a trifle too big, but as it's a jacket, i'd rather it be roomy so I can wear a jumper or couple of layers under it.  The only alteration I made to the pattern was to shorten it by 3cm.  I did this at the front and back,  but really I think I should only have shortened the back.  For bigger busted 'petite' women (ie: under 5'4"), the front of the garment should be longer than the back to compensate for 'bust rise'.  Consequently with this jacket, the waistline is not level but I've already cut it out - not a huge problem but I could have done better by being more patient!

Here are the front side panels in progress.  A peplum is a little floaty flap which kicks out like a large frill.  The bottom section in this picture is the peplum, it works because it is made from a panel which has been slashed and spread giving it volume,  making it wider at the bottom with shorter curved seam at the top.  

When this curved edge  is eased against a slightly longer straight edge and sewn down,  the peplum kicks out in a frilly manner.  

The front of the jacket calls for interfacing, so I have used medium weight, woven fusible cotton.  I am going to use some 'light' tailoring techniques on the jacket to make sure it has structure and strength but I'm not going to go overboard with the tailoring on this project because this is just practice for the next 'big' project, the Vogue 8333 which is a Claudia Schaeffer couture number.

I basically want to make sure that this jacket is firm not floppy and that the collars stay in the right place, so I'm including a neck stay to stabilise the collar and ensure it lays flat against the chest as it should - this is particularly important for ladies with a bigger bust apparently.

I followed the techniques in my tailoring book and employed a fell stitch to attach the stay tape just inside the seam allowance of the jacket collar.

I've also added a back stay to keep the jacket in shape.

I really like the slanted panels at the sides which i've topstitched for extra definition.

I'm using a 100% wool fabric which I think is car upholstery -  that's what they said in the shop!  It has quite a stiff hand and cost £5.00/m.  I've used 2 metres which was only just enough, and will line it with plain black polyester lining.  Next job is shaping the collar.

My future wardrobe

Do you ever have lots of good intentions, fuelled by certain inspirations and fantasies, and then find a year or so down the line that not only did you never get round to all the things you meant to, but your inspiration or intention has changed and with it your focus?

And so "My future wardrobe" on the left is soon to be erased, to be replaced by "My wardrobe in progress".. It's different.  More practical. Quick.  Modern.  As much as I love to cut my own patterns, i've been spending all my energy on corsetry. There's no more left for clothes design and frankly, sewing from patterns is relaxing for me, so i've stocked up via Vogue and Colette, and made a 'capsule' board to focus on basics which will go with the existing bits in my ready made wardrobe, which still fit me.

I have all the fabric already, now i'm going to use it - it's been hanging around for at least a couple of years!  I really don't want to go out and buy more bits - so this entire project will be made from my current stash of everything.

I made a chart:

And I've already started! 

You see, I really really need some clothes -  in the last year i've gone from a size 8 to a size 14 and back down to a 10 again ... I feel like Oprah Winfrey!!  So i've started with a jacket.  The Vogue 8701 with light tailoring, in preparation for Vogue 8333 which is a Claire Schaeffer couture number.  I'll be blogging my progress in the next few posts, so stay tuned!