Tuesday, 20 September 2011

Vogue 8701

I know, don't faint!  I have actually started making something other than a corset!  And this is it.  Project 1 of 6, the Vogue 8701 jacket.  I like it because of the open shawl type collar, short length and fitted style.  It's a jacket I am making to wear with jeans or a skirt.  Smart yet casual, and warm.

click on pics to enlarge
I made a toile from many different bits of calico - hence the strange "technicolour dreamcoat" look!  There are 14 pattern pieces to this jacket which makes for some interesting details, namely some slanted panels and peplums which go towards creating the fitted look.

The centre back section is made from 2 pieces, but I am not sure why, so I have cut the back panel on a fold for a less smoother look.  I cut the size 16 which I think MIGHT be a trifle too big, but as it's a jacket, i'd rather it be roomy so I can wear a jumper or couple of layers under it.  The only alteration I made to the pattern was to shorten it by 3cm.  I did this at the front and back,  but really I think I should only have shortened the back.  For bigger busted 'petite' women (ie: under 5'4"), the front of the garment should be longer than the back to compensate for 'bust rise'.  Consequently with this jacket, the waistline is not level but I've already cut it out - not a huge problem but I could have done better by being more patient!

Here are the front side panels in progress.  A peplum is a little floaty flap which kicks out like a large frill.  The bottom section in this picture is the peplum, it works because it is made from a panel which has been slashed and spread giving it volume,  making it wider at the bottom with shorter curved seam at the top.  

When this curved edge  is eased against a slightly longer straight edge and sewn down,  the peplum kicks out in a frilly manner.  

The front of the jacket calls for interfacing, so I have used medium weight, woven fusible cotton.  I am going to use some 'light' tailoring techniques on the jacket to make sure it has structure and strength but I'm not going to go overboard with the tailoring on this project because this is just practice for the next 'big' project, the Vogue 8333 which is a Claudia Schaeffer couture number.

I basically want to make sure that this jacket is firm not floppy and that the collars stay in the right place, so I'm including a neck stay to stabilise the collar and ensure it lays flat against the chest as it should - this is particularly important for ladies with a bigger bust apparently.

I followed the techniques in my tailoring book and employed a fell stitch to attach the stay tape just inside the seam allowance of the jacket collar.

I've also added a back stay to keep the jacket in shape.

I really like the slanted panels at the sides which i've topstitched for extra definition.

I'm using a 100% wool fabric which I think is car upholstery -  that's what they said in the shop!  It has quite a stiff hand and cost £5.00/m.  I've used 2 metres which was only just enough, and will line it with plain black polyester lining.  Next job is shaping the collar.


dragonfly said...

I'm sorry, I'm laughing at you dressed in car upholstery! I can't believe that.
I love your confidence in tweaking things to suit your needs. My pattern came yesterday and so it is there on my desk waiting patiently its turn.

Diane said...

We recently deconstructed a tailored gents jacket in a workshop I attented, and all commented on the amount of work that went into a tailored jacket. You have such patience to go to these lengths to make sure that it fits and looks right. When I last made a jacket (a million moons ago) I lost patience before I lined it! I cheated and got a dressmaker to line it!) xxx

frk.bustad said...

That's such a lovely jacket! I'm looking for something light-tailored myself (if I can ever have the patience...), and this sure goes on my list! Looking forward to the result!

Anonymous said...

Thanks for this. This jacket is nearing the top of my to-be-sewn pile as an item I am using to challenge myself to properly fit clothing to my chest. I struggled a bit with fitting the dress from the pattern so your visuals and suggestions on how the jacket should look are very useful.

ConstantlyAlice said...

I have this pattern! I purchased a teal plaid to make the dress out of. Can't wait to see how your jacket turns out ;)

JuliaB said...

@ Tracy - I bought it from a fabric shop who were getting rid of a box of 'samples' of winter fabric .. they said it was used for cars and it does look a bit like that!

JuliaB said...

@Diane - hello! I do pop into you yours quite often, nice to see you here :)

JuliaB said...

@ frk.bustad That book i linked to is really good

JuliaB said...

@ nomadic stitches - I am going to be doing posts of petite women of bigger bust.

JuliaB said...

@contantly alice - I hope it will inspire you :)